Iconic photos like this one clearly show how this national park got its name. From early evening and on into morning, fog often rolls into the valleys here, creating this unusual ‘smoking’ effect. Experiencing this for yourself is made easy by the many accessible and breathtaking views found throughout the area. Nestled along the border between Tennessee and North Carolina, the 522,000 acres of Great Smoky Mountains National Park is frequently accessed from through Gatlinburg, Tennessee. Truly, any visit to this area needs to include a little time spent in the sister communities of Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge, but don’t let either of their personalities cloud your opinion of the Smoky’s. In some ways, these two towns couldn’t be more different, but they have their similarities, too. Both offer a bevy of activities for a family looking for an interesting getaway, but Pigeon Forge leans toward the blatantly commercial (there are no less than 13 go-kart tracks on the main drive) while Gatlinburg is decidedly kitschy (think haunted houses, fun houses, treetop zip lines and the like). There are certainly some highlights to be found in both places – including Dolly Parton’s Dixie Stampede in Pigeon Forge and the tram at Ober Gatlinburg – but neither town compares to the astounding beauty and amazing sites of the park.

If you have a few days to spend here, the first one should be in the car, as counter-intuitive as that might sound. Take the Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trail, a one-way loop of Cherokee Orchard Road, stopping along the way for a few short hikes to become familiar with the flora and fauna. There are some beautiful hikes off this main road to a variety of views: old grist mills, settlements, and two of the parks most popular waterfalls, Rainbow Falls and Grotto Falls. Last time we were there, we encountered black bears playing beneath the spray and both deer and elk are common.

Spend your second day venturing deeper into the park. At Newfound Gap, you can straddle the line between the two states and see hikers traversing the Appalachian Trail. Farther in, a trip to the unique ramp up the viewpoint at Clingman’s Dome is a must-see. Or if you have a little more time, a short drive west from Gatlinburg will bring you to Cade’s Cove, an isolated and fertile valley that was once a hunting ground for the Cherokee Indians and home to some of the earliest settlers in the region.

The 11-mile, one-way loop road encircles the Cades Cove valley and is one of the best places in the park to view wildlife. You’ll see 18th- and 19th-century cabins, three churches, and a working grist mill, as well as other historic outbuildings. This part of the park is generally considered the best chance to see deer, black bears, and wild turkeys.

When to Go to the Great Smoky Mountains
The range, towering above its surrounding region, has a high annual precipitation, including quite a bit of snow, which can cause unexpected road closures that make Smoky Mountain travel difficult.

Spring, when all the snow has melted except on the mountain peaks and flowers are in full bloom, is the nicest time to travel to the Great Smoky Mountains. The fall is also a great time for a visit, when the leaves change and the colors are at their peak. Whenever you go, consider the park attracts more than 10 million visitors a year, so it can be crowded.

Photo by Wally Pacholka / AstroPics

“This park is larger than all of the other National Park Service units in the Midwest combined,” notes Badlands National Park’s chief of interpretation, Jennie Albrinck. “We have a great diversity of stories that converge here — the fossils, the prairie grasses and wildlife, Lakota history, pioneer history, and homesteading. It’s all here waiting to be explored.”

She’s right: with nearly 250,000 acres of mixed-grass prairie and ancient fossil beds, Badlands National Park should be on the must-see list for every adventurer, especially fossil lovers. The park offers an amazingly diverse topography that was once home a collection of animals that is hard to imagine today: saber tooth cats, rhinos, camels, three-toed horses, and a large variety of sea life all once called this area home.

In fact, the White River Badlands contain the largest known assemblage of mammal fossils from the late Eocene and Oligocene periods. The specimens found here have contributed significantly to the science of vertebrate paleontology since the first discovery by Dr. Hirma Prout in 1846.

Significant finds continue in the park today. In fact, just a few years ago, a seven-year-old park visitor named Kylie found a fossil near the visitor’s center. When she reported it to the park rangers, their investigation identified her find as an exceptionally rare and well-preserved saber tooth cat fossil. Additional surveying turned up even more samples, and the area is now known as Saber Site.

In addition to the bird, reptile, and mammalian fossils, there are marine fossils from an ancient sea that covered the region some 70 million years ago during the Cretaceous period. Samples found in the Pierre Shale and Fox Hills Formations include ammonites, nautiloids, fish, marine reptiles, and turtles.

The spectacular fossils preserved within the White River Badlands have been studied extensively for more than 175 years and are featured prominently in museum collections throughout the world. The park also boasts a working Fossil Preparation Lab. Located in the Ben Reifel Visitor Center, this active paleontological laboratory gives visitors the chance to watch paleontologists at work and learn more about the continuing scientific discoveries.

If fossils aren’t your thing, you might be interested in one of the many day hikes available through the park. Trails range from easy to strenuous, so there’s something for everyone. Two highlights include the view of the White River Valley from the top of the strenuous Notch Trail and the magnificent vista at the end of The Door Trail, an easy .75-mile hike the terminates through “the Door” – the appropriately named break in the 100-mile long wall that creates a natural barrier in the park.

A final must-see: The night sky over Badlands National Park is simply stunning. Summer night sky viewing is offered at the Cedar Pass Campground Amphitheater on Friday – Monday nights. On any clear night, visitors you’ll see more than 7,500 stars, and views include not only galaxies but also star clusters, nebulae, planets, and moons. Look closely, and you’ll also see fly-overs by numerous satellites and the International Space Station.

After the evening ranger program, stay to enjoy the spectacular night sky through telescopes provided thanks to funding from Celestron and Badlands Natural History Association.

Getting there: The park is about 3 miles south of I-90 at S. Dak. 240, 75 miles east of Rapid City and 27 miles west of Kadoka. In many ways, getting there can be half the fun. Before heading out, be sure to spend a little time reviewing the fun and quirky roadside attractions found at Travel South Dakota.

A few cautionary notes regarding your time at Badlands National Park. The Badlands can, at times, live up to its name. The weather can turn dangerous very quickly, so be sure to know where you and be prepared at all times. Some key tips:

1. Always carry water! Rangers recommend two quarts per person per two-hour hike.
2. A hat and sunglasses are strongly encouraged, as well as rain gear since weather conditions can change rapidly.
3. Wear sturdy boots or shoes to protect your feet from cactus spines.
4. Keep a distance of at least 100 yards from all wildlife encountered during your hike. If wildlife reacts to your presence at all, you are too close.